The Skirt That Took Forever

I guess it's fitting, on this Labor Day weekend, to post a skirt that was very labor intensive!

This is Burda 8216. I first made this skirt in June of '07, and frankly I'm surprised I stuck with it when I was so new to sewing. I couldn't find a link to the pattern (is it out of print already?) so here it is:

Six different sections? Twelve slices to sew together? Belt loops? Pockets? FLAPS on the pockets? Buttonholes? Topstitching? A zipper? Not that any one step is difficult, but you have to be very methodical, and it takes sooo long, especially all the finish work inside. For my first attempt, last summer, I used a floral print from JoAnn's clearance shelves and saved myself some work by skipping the pockets (they would have looked dumb with this fabric anyway). This was the very first time I really took my time, finished all the raw edges, and --ta da!-- used bias tape on a facing!

The pockets looked so neat on the pattern, though, so this time I chose a solid brown linen blend and vowed not to skip anything. Except...when I got to the pockets, I started questioning them. Won't they make the skirt too casual? Should I leave them off so it's more versatile? No no no! I said I was going to make pockets! So here it is in all its pocketed glory:

Sorry the picture isn't the greatest, but I don't have my photographer. I tried to take some using the timer, but it's too hot outside today to screw around!

A word of advice should you attempt this pattern: One way or another, you MUST mark everything! Each piece is a little different, they have to go together in the right order, and trust me, when you have twelve pieces that all look mostly the same? They need to be marked. I cheated a little and didn't transfer every single marking, but I marked each piece with its name on the wrong side.

No contrasting facing this time! Just some dotty bias tape I've been saving for just the right project.

Wee Wonderfulness

So I've been thinking about the blogs I visit and the sites I enjoy. Which one should I talk about first? I guess it makes sense to start at the beginning.

One day in 2006, as Christmas was approaching, I went searching on the internet for free embroidery patterns. I had a pile of napkins I'd purchased at Target the year before for 90% off, and I thought they'd make a neat present for someone if I added a little embroidery to them.

I never did embroider those napkins, but that search led me to Wee Wonderfuls. Now, anyone who is crafty and follows blogs knows Wee Wonderfuls, but I hardly even knew what a blog was back then. In fact, I'd attended a little seminar about blogging for work, and left the meeting wondering why on earth anyone would even do something like that.

WELL! Once I landed at WW and started looking around, it suddenly all made sense. I remember calling my mom, all excited, and saying, "You should see this! This woman is just like me! She likes RED and THRIFT shops and CUTE stuff!" I loved the crafts she did, I loved her furniture, I loved her Christmas decorations, I loved her kid's name (there was just one back then). My mom asked me if I'd talked to her. Talked to her? Hilary is like a ROCK STAR, one of the grande dames of craft blogging! No, I didn't talk to her. Mom!

But it was like Hilary became one of my friends. I got to know her by going back into the archives and reading every single post. I checked her blog every day to see what she was up to. And eventually Hilary inspired me to dig out my sewing machine and use it again.

The first thing I sewed after dusting off my machine was a Valentine gift for my husband, Gerry. The design was a blatant rip off of one of Hilary's bears. But that bear is what lit the spark of creating in me again. Look what I made out of some junk I was just going to throw away! I made that!

So, Hilary, sorry about that bear, but thanks for the inspiration. Someday I hope my blog can grow up to be a little like yours.

Much Appreciated

I'm glad people like my blog. :-)

Solveig of Made by Petchy, to whom I am ALWAYS referring and linking, picked me as an "inspiring" blog. --blush--

And Jesica picked me 'cause she likes my crafty stuff. --shucks--

I like them too. I think they're both inspiring and all around cool people, and I like checking in on their blogs pretty much every day. Solveig has been in a crafting frenzy lately! Check out her blog if you need some motivation. And Jesica...she's been busy in the kitchen. Gerry and I have been slacking with our meal posts over on our CSA blog, but Jesica has been cooking!

It's nice to have someone tell you they enjoy your blog, but I'm going to detour from the rules a little and refrain from choosing a new round of winners. I know, I know...I should play along. Hopefully you all won't label me a wet blanket, but I'm going to break the chain.

I do, however, enjoy links as much as anyone, so I'm going to make an effort to share more of my favorites. I'm just going to let things unfurl more organically, so to speak. I hope that's okay.

Susan aka Darling Petunia

Decisions, Decisions

When you're trying to decide what your next project will be, is it a huge struggle? Because it is for me. I look through patterns. I look through fabric on my shelves. I go back to the patterns. I look things up on Pattern Review. I check to see if fabric is on sale this week. I paw through my refashion basket. I vacillate. I dither. I look at projects on Wardrobe Refashion. I finally pick out a pattern and fabric and ALMOST start, and then I put it all back. Ugh.

Finally, FINALLY, I decided to use some Alexander Henry fabric I've had for a few months. The main fabric was a fortunate find in the remnant bin one day--just enough for a basic skirt. I bought a quarter yard of the contrasting fabric (using a 40% off coupon, of course), because I knew it would make me happy to see those dots inside!



The fabric has a lot going on, so I just wanted an a-line skirt. I used Butterick 4461 instead of my precious New Look 6843 because the New Look has a waistband and no facing. I used this pattern once before for this skirt, which was a little too big, so I went down a size and am much happier with it. HOWEVER! Next time I am going to draw a new facing for this stupid pattern. The way it goes together is seriously dumb, and I knew that going in, but...I don't know. I thought it might have changed since the last time I made it?



This is how I'll wear it for now, but I can't wait 'til I can warm it up with tights, boots, and a turtleneck!



A quick word about facings! Someone recently commented on them, said hers never look so polished, and asked about a tutorial. Well, there's no secret, really. I just finish off that bottom edge with double fold bias tape. Other than that, I just do as the pattern says: Use interfacing, turn the ends under and whipstitch them down, etc. But really, it's all about the bias tape! Darling Petunia + bias tape = True Love Forever.

And the Bag Goes To...

No random number generators for me--I went old school! My husband reached into the basket and picked Stephanie! Stephanie, the Charming Handbag will be on its way to you, just as soon as you email me your info. (DarlingPetunia@aol.com)

But wait! Why stop there? If I'm giving stuff away, I might as well clear the decks. I told Gerry to pick another one, and we'd see if they wanted a different bag. We reached in again and picked...Mittie! Mittie, you're getting the Tokyo Tie Bag!

And finally, Nanette! Nanette liked the preppy tote best and the preppy tote she shall have!

Thanks to everyone for joining in the fun and celebrating my 100th post. I swear I was not fishing for the wonderful comments you all left...but they sure were lovely to read!

Summer Reading

It's been way too long since I posted about books! Never fear--I've been reading.

Pitch Perfect: the Quest for Collegiate A Cappella Glory by Mickey Rapkin: I used to LOVE going to the a cappella concerts at school, so I was excited to read this book about what goes on behind the scenes. I enjoyed it, but I'm not sure someone without fond memories of a cappella concerts in the chapel would find it interesting.

Civil and Strange by Clair Ni Aonghusa: I found this one by searching the library catalog for books set in Ireland. It's about a woman who moves from Dublin to a small town where she used to spend her summers. "Civil and strange" refers to the advice she gets for dealing with the townspeople who are constantly into everyone else's business. It was okay, but not super exciting.

The Bay at Midnight by Diane Chamberlain: I enjoyed the first Diane C. book I read, so I figured I'd try a few others. This one centers on the mystery of a teenage girl's murder and weaves together past and present while exploring family dynamics and secrets. I sailed through this book. Really liked it.

Evan and Elle by Rhys Bowen: Another Evan Evans mystery, of course!

Barefoot by Elin Hilderbrand: A library patron recommended this to me, and it looked really summery and vacationy so I figured why not? It was okay, but not the greatest. About two sisters and a friend who spend the summer on Nantucket confronting big life changes. Ho hum.

Before the Storm by Diane Chamberlain: Yep, another one. I've been saying that Chamberlain's novels sort of remind me of Jodi Picoult, and then this one shows up and there's a blurb on the front cover calling her the Southern Jodi Picoult! I have to say, of the books I've read, this one is the most like a Picoult. Another one that I sailed right through.

H.R.H. by Danielle Steel: My first Danielle Steel book ever! I thought it was my responsibility as a library worker to have some familiarity with her books. It's fluff, which is about what I expected. Very easy to read...repetitive...a fairy tale. But not horrible.

Arf! Arf!

I'd like you all to meet Patches. When I was three years old, my grandma made Patches for me out of clothes I'd outgrown. The black corduroy with the flowers was a pair of overalls, the plaids were little dresses, etc. My mom remembers making some of those clothes on her Kenmore sewing machine! I can't find any pictures of the original outfits, but I did find this:

Not the greatest picture, but I'm glad we held onto it all these years, if only to see Patches in his prime!

Fourteen years later, Patches made the trip to college with me (yep, that's my dorm room with Patches on my pillow). On my first night there, we had a "getting to know you" meeting in the dorm, and we were each instructed to bring along a special item. I took my Patches, and I think he got the biggest "Awww!" of all.

P.S. Don't miss the wee bag giveaway! You still have until Sunday night to enter!

Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe

Guess what post this is. Hmm. That didn't take long! It seems like just yesterday when I sat here thinking, "What the heck am I going to do with a BLOG? What do I say? Will anyone care?"

As seems to be traditional, I am giving something away in honor of my one hundredth post! If you would like to win your choice of one of my wee bags, this is what you do:

Leave a comment on this post.

Deadline is Sunday night, August 24, at whatever time I feel like it.

The name will be chosen randomly by a method yet to be determined. (We'll see if Isabella is up to it.)

I accept no bribes. :-)

Did I forget anything?

And I do mean it when I call the bags wee--they're all too wee for me. But if you are a minimalist kinda gal, one of these would be great for you.

First is my very first Tokyo Tie Bag. It's pretty tiny! It measures just over ten inches across the bottom. It probably wouldn't be a good everyday bag, but it would be great for carrying just a few bits along on a dinner out.

Next is the preppy little Simple Tote. which was the star of this tutorial. It's just eight inches deep, but you can really stuff it, and the handles hold everything in!

And finally, also from the Bend-the-Rules Sewing book, is the Charming Handbag, which is about 11 inches across the bottom.

So which would you pick if you won?

Groovin'

Recently, on Made By Petchy, I saw a link for a tutorial to make wrap pants. Once upon a time, someone sent me a scan of an original set of 70's directions for making these--I think they called them "2 and a half yard wrap pants." It had a groovy drawing of the finished product and everything! Alas, my file will not open. I never got around to trying them, mainly because they are so NOT the kind of thing I wear, but with the recent revival in interest, I became curious. I also needed to do something to get off my duff, because I've been sick for the past two days and haven't felt like doing anything. Blah.

There are tons of directions floating around for making these, but I happened to have a pattern, Simplicity 5508. That particular pattern seems to be out of print, but there is now Simplicity 4192 or Burda 2989, if you don't feel like winging it. The one thing the pattern includes that I don't see in the tutorials is darts. I like having darts in wrap skirts, so I was happy to have them in the pants. The pattern also had you make a waistband and ties, but I skipped that and did the bias tape cheat. The fabric was not really a good candidate for that, anyway.

Speaking of the fabric, it has been on my shelf for a good long while. I'm not even sure why I bought it, because I'm not that crazy about it, but I figured I had nothing to lose if I hated the pants, so I used it. It's actually a good fabric for these pants--gauzy and drapey-- but it has a metallic thread running through it, and IT ITCHES!

So anyway, here are the finished pants, front, back, and center!

P.S. I discovered these are a bit of a pain when you have to go to the bathroom!

Identity Crisis

I was starting to have an identity crisis, because almost three weeks have passed since I made a skirt! Simplicity 4695 has been on my mind ever since I used the yoke piece to refashion this skirt. I'd made it once before, and I really liked how it came out, but it was too big.

I still wear it, of course, but it sits really low on the hips and is constantly getting turned around. It probably goes through three full revolutions during a day at work!


Summer is still in full swing here, so I decided to use a bright, floral pique for my second go at it. I also resolved to sew the whole thing using the scary Bernina. It took me a good bit longer to complete, because I had to keep looking things up in the manual: How do you thread this thing again? Which way does the bobbin thread go? The first really big obstacle was figuring out how to finish edges. Turns out I didn't have the foot I needed, so I improvised with a zig zag. Putting in the zipper really had me nervous, but it worked out fine once I figured out how to move the needle!

Good grief, I guess I should have ironed it!

A touch of orange!

Sewing Machines

Someone named Stephanie asked about sewing machines. Stephanie? Are you out there?



Hmm, so what do I have to say about sewing machines? Well, my first machine was the one all the way to the left--a really basic Kenmore. I'd just moved to California, no longer had access to mom's machine, and just wanted something for making stuff like pillows and simple curtains. It didn't have a lot of features, but it was fine for simple projects like that.

Once I got into making clothes, my mom offered to upgrade me to a new machine. We still weren't sure if this hobby was going to stick, so we had a price limit of about $250. She is a BIG fan of Kenmore machines, so we went straight to Sears. If you look at the Sears website, my machine is the lower end computerized machine. I have been very happy with it. It has all the features I need, without a lot of bells and whistles that I'd never use. My mom's machine, on which she sews endless amounts of doll clothes to sell, is a step up from mine, and she also has no complaints. They're very straightforward machines. They still have all the features, but they're user friendly.

So what features did I think I needed? Well, the computerized stitch selection. Automatic buttonholes. Horizontal bobbin. And it sounds dumb, but I really like the one-touch needle up/down button. I don't use most of the 110 stitches, and I've never used the automatic needle threader.

Okay, I just called my mom to see if she had anything to add. She said, "You know what? I've had a Kenmore sewing machine for forty years. Grandma bought me my first machine when I was preganant with YOU, and the first thing I made with it was maternity clothes." I pressed her for details on what she likes about them, and she mentioned ease of operation, "They're self-explanatory." She also said, "The service is GREAT. You just drop it off at Sears. I kind of hate to say it, but they're almost trouble-free. And I use them HARD." So there ya have it, folks.

Now, the machine on the right. That's my mom's Bernina (Activa 230 Patchwork Edition). The Bernina that intimidates her. I brought it home with me to see if it's really as complicated as she thinks. So far, I've only used it to make two bags, so I don't have a lot of experience with it. It is a bit more mysterious, I'll agree with that! Oh well, it can probably do a million things I'll never want to do, anyway.

Right off the bat, there were some things I didn't love about it. The sewing "table" or whatever you call it is very narrow. It comes with an auxiliary piece you can snap on to make the table larger, but then you can't get at the bobbin. The bobbin isn't a lovely horizontal bobbin like I'm used to, either. My mom called it "very old fashioned." Um, what else? It doesn't have the needle up/down thing (as far as I can tell, anyway), and I really miss that. Overall, it just isn't as self-explanatory as my Kenmore. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to reverse! I could see the little U-shape embossed on there, but didn't realize it was a button. Whose dumb idea was that?



On the positive side, it does have a good, solid feel, and it seems to run like clockwork. It seems to have a finer variation in stitch lengths/widths. I ran it through a bunch of different decorative stitches, one after the other, without a hitch. I'm sure it's a fine machine, but it retails for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1300, and that's overkill for me.

For more information, Pattern Review has an area for sewing machine reviews. I also invite any blog readers to chime in with their experiences, because I am certainly no expert! I hope that helped some!

Tokyo Tie Bag, Tutorial Notes

Can you stand one more post about that bag? I just want to add a couple of thoughts, and then I'll be done. Well, for now. Until I go on another bag making binge. If you missed the original tutorial, it's right here.

The final measurements:

After the rough 25% enlargement and then the extra overall length, this is what I've come up with. This results in a bag deep enough for an average load of stuff with straps that are long enough to go over your shoulder. My paper pattern is a quarter inch smaller here and there, but I simplified things a little for this diagram.

I can fit a wallet, checkbook, pack of tissues, sunglass case, tape measure, pen, and a bag of cosmetics with space left over. If I had a mobile phone, I'm sure that would fit in there too!

Regarding the half yards of fabric, yes, this can be done, but remember, rather than cutting two pieces out of each fabric on the fold, you'll be cutting four pieces out of each fabric and sewing extra seams up the sides.

See the extra seam that runs along the side and up the length of the handles? I'm perfectly fine with how it looks, but I will warn you that it got a little bulky down at the bottom corners when I used the corduroy. Just something to keep in mind.

Also, the half yard thing won't work if you have a directional fabric. I got away with it on this bag, even though the fabric had a direction, because I thought it looked fine either way. Here's what your layout will look like.

Oh, and for what it's worth, I didn't add any extra width for seam allowances when I used four pieces instead of two. It doesn't make much difference.

Now, onto the button loop. To make that, I used a two by seven inch rectangle, ironed it lengthwise into quarters, and sewed up the long edge. Don't worry about the short ends, they are sewn into the seam.

Then I sewed across the point so it stays all nice and crisp and flat and pointy.

Then you just insert the loop between the main fabric and the lining, and it gets sewn right into the top seam. That picture was shows it all lined up and ready to insert. There's no mystery about where to put it, because you just line it up with the front seams. Whether you want the folded under part facing up or down is up to you. I've done it both ways.

This is actually bag #2 I made from this fabric. Here's #1. And you want to know a little piece of trivia? If you have one yard of fabric, you don't have to do the extra seams on both bags. You can do one the traditional way with the pieces on the folds and one the squeezy way with the extra seams.

Okay, I have thought about this WAY too much. You're probably all wishing I'd make a skirt or something! Bye for now!

I'm Not Sure

So, wait a minute...which button? Number three? Really? You're sure? Maybe I should wait until twelve more people tell me they like it best. Just kidding! It was my favorite too.

THANK YOU so much for all the nice comments and for helping me make up my mind about the button! I see there are some questions in the comments, too, and I will be happy to answer them--just not tonight, I have to get to bed!

Updates

First, an update on my black tee shirt. I knew the length was going to continue to haunt me, so I dug a second tee out of the refashion basket, chopped off the bottom few inches, and added another layer to the bottom. I kicked around the idea of adding some of that reverse applique thing a la Alabama Chanin, because I figured it would make it look even more like I layered two shirts, but I thought it would be too much going on with the gathering at the neckline.

Next up is the Tokyo Tie Bag. There were two areas I wanted to play with: the depth of the bag and the fabric requirement. I lengthened the bag's body by 2.25 inches. Know how I came up with that figure? I was using a piece of scrap paper that was 3 inches wide!

That two and a quarter inches was just what I needed, though. Now all my stuff fits!

Regarding the fabric requirement, my goal was to use only a half-yard of each fabric. As long as you're willing to add two more seams, up the sides of the bag, you can easily get away with just a half-yard. Good news if you want to use a more expensive fabric! I honestly don't think it detracts from the bag, either.

Oh, that reminds me, I made one more change: I fashioned a little fabric loop for keeping the bag closed. Now I just have to decide on a button.

Which one?